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Phi’s jacket, part 1

I didn’t mean to wait a month until posting again! I had a couple delays on making Phi’s jacket. First, the fabric I wanted was sold out, so I had to pick an alternative and that slowed the shipping of my fabric order.

Next, I underestimated the jacket. I thought it’d be really easy and quick to make, but I had to adjust my pattern a few times. It took me 2 tries to mock up the jacket and like 3 or 4 tries to get the collar right.

phi_jacket_01

The fabric I ended up getting is a Cotton Nylon Twill. I thought about using a lighter fabric like broadcloth to line the jacket, but in the end, I just used the twill on both sides. The jacket is kind of heavy because of that!

The first thing I did was cut out 4 pieces of every jacket part. I sewed the outer parts together, and then I sewed the lining parts together separately.

phi_jacket_02


Next, I sewed the outer part and lining together by the right and left sides of the jacket. I left the bottom and shoulders open, so I could flip it inside out afterwards. Then I just sewed the shoulders together.

phi_jacket_03

I sewed on the collar and placed it between the top part of the lapels (I hadn’t sewn them together yet). I folded down the top of the lapels and sewed them together with the collar sandwiched between the outer part and the lining.

phi_jacket_04

I did something similar with the bottom of the jacket. I folded the seams inwards, ironed them, and then sewed them together.

phi_jacket_05

Though Phi’s artwork doesn’t show darts in her jacket, I really felt it needed them. Without darts, the jacket fell super flat on me, which isn’t how it looks on Phi. I added two in the back and then two in the front too.

phi_jacket_06

Here are more photos of the jacket so far to show how I sewed it.

Inside of the jacket - lining side

Inside of the jacket – lining side

Inside of the shoulder and collar

Inside of the shoulder and collar

Outside with collar flipped up

Outside with collar flipped up

I’m adding pocket flaps and the belt next, and I hope to finish the jacket this weekend!

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